アイロンのかけ方:温度・時間・反りの防ぎ方
英語のみ
Ironing is the only irreversible step in the whole process. Placing beads takes half an hour; ruining them takes ten seconds. Follow the order below and it will go right.
1. Temperature: medium, no steam
Set the iron to a medium setting, roughly 150 °C — the wool or silk position on most household irons — and switch steam off. Steam makes beads damp and leaves a chalky white surface. With an old iron that has no thermostat, test on a scrap board for three seconds first.
2. One side or two
- Single-sided (recommended for beginners): iron one face for about 10 to 15 seconds. The holes stay visible, the piece keeps some depth, and it is far less likely to warp.
- Double-sided: iron both faces. Flatter and stronger, which suits coasters and keychains that get handled — but it means controlling heat twice, and overheating is easy.
3. Motion: circles, never one spot
With the ironing paper on top, move the iron in slow circles, pausing two to three seconds per area. Holding still over-melts one region and leaves a sunken patch. An A5-sized pattern takes roughly twenty to thirty seconds.
4. Why pieces warp
- Lifting it straight away — the beads are still soft and bend under their own weight. Press flat and let it cool for at least two minutes.
- Heating the pegboard directly — pressing too hard deforms the plastic and the piece follows it.
- Uneven heat — edges melted, centre not, so it shrinks inconsistently while cooling.
5. Cooling and flattening
Do not peel the paper yet. Leave the board flat on the table, put a heavy book or any flat weight on top, and wait three to five minutes for it to cool completely. This single step solves most warping.